Lake Huron – Exploring the Michigan Thumb

Huron County Lighthouse Park at Pointe Aux Barques

I arrived at this park on the last Wednesday in June and it was nearly empty. My original plan was to stay for five nights, then move on up the Thumb. However I failed to consider that would mean finding another campground during the Independence Day holiday. I quickly found out that every Michigander with a camper planned to spend the Fourth using it, and had made reservations two months earlier.

Through some fluke, the only place I could find with an open campsite was right where I was at, a hundred feet closer to the lighthouse from my current spot. So I ended up being here for nine days instead of five, my longest stop yet of this tour. Fortunately the park was great as well as being conveniently located between Port Hope and Port Austin, so there were many opportunities for explorations up and down the Thumb. And to be honest, I really liked the area.

I had a couple nice foggy days with squalls coming off the Lake that had me humming Lightfoot happily. But inevitably the mercurial weather of the Great Lakes turned a sharp corner, and suddenly it was bright, dry and warm. The park began to fill up until the NO VACANCY sign went out, but the neighbors were friendly and by then I was out venturing for most of the day anyway.

I spent the first few days checking out the Pointe Aux Barques lighthouse, walking the shore and just soaking in the Lake Huron vibe. Hard to explain, but the Thumb felt much more laid back than the Detroit area. Maybe it was the Canadian radio stations from over the horizon, but folks just seemed a bit more pleasant than they were closer to Motown.

Port Hope: Ant bait & the Leroy Burger

Back on Lake Erie I had picked up a troupe of little sweet ants, and as mechanical intervention had failed to convince them to move on it was time to escalate to chemical warfare. I had neglected to pack a bottle of Terro when I loaded the camper, so I needed to seek out a hardware store. I had spotted one in Port Hope on my way through to the campground, so I turned the truck South to search out insect doom and a post office to drop my freshly minted postcards.

Port Austin: Touristy, but nice

Another day trip was North to nearly the top of the Thumb – the inviting tourist town of Port Austin. Unlike Port Hope’s harbor, which is little more than a glorified boat ramp, Port Austin boast a State Harbor – essentially the equivalent of a State Park for boaters. The Harbors are also run by the state  and use the same reservation system, so if you prefer a cabin cruiser to a camper the DNR has you covered for a slip all along the Michigan coast, complete with water and electric hookups.

Next to the harbor is a sandy beach, and the small town is chock full of shops offering lighthouse souvenirs and fudge to tourists. But the town doesn’t feel tacky; it’s more of a relaxed, come-as-you-are type place. Think Tybee Island vibe, complete with funky little 1950’s motels with names like Beachcomber & Lucky Horseshoe.

I strolled the town and harbor and got some exercise walking to the end of the loooong North breakwater, where I made some interesting observations. After working up a good appetite I treated myself to a meal of fish from Lake Huron at what looked like the best bet for upscale gastronomy in town. The meal was excellent, and I ended up in a fifteen minute confab with the owner evaluating his place. I paid my bill in full and the consult was free, because like I told him: I’m retired!

Bad Axe: The stolid heart of the Thumb

According to the locals, if you wanted to buy stuff in any quantity or do any sort of non-touristy business, Bad Axe was the place to go.  I needed fuel, groceries and clean underwear, so I headed due West to the interior of the Thumb. I never did learn where the name came from, but I did find that although Bad Axe is only a half hour from the coast, it’s a world away from the vacation culture of the Lake shore. Folks here are serious about getting on with the business of life, be it farming, rebuilding truck motors or running a combination coffee house, pool hall and laundromat to capture your quarters.

Don’t misconstrue my meaning – Bad Axe is a perfectly normal small city with lots of pleasant, hard working citizens. It’s only in the contrast between the spectacular coasts of the state that these typically Midwestern  places seem to come up short. How can we expect the earth tones of farmland to compare to the brilliant sapphire of Lake Huron? There is no doubt Michigan is a state with many facets, and I had only begun to examine the jewel.

Next time: Saginaw Bay